Borrowing Wisely and Avoiding Predatory Loans · Lesson 2 of 2

Buying a Car: Get a Fair Loan and Avoid Dealer Traps

Budget for the full cost of a car, get pre-approved for a loan, recognize dealer traps such as long loans, add-ons, and yo-yo financing, and think carefully before you cosign.

  • About 18 min
  • Quiz questions: 5
  • Last checked: Rujan 2026
  • Builds on: Money Smart for Adults, Module 10: Building Your Financial Future (Section 3, Cars as Assets), and Module 7: Borrowing Basics

Parts of this lesson are not translated into your language yet, so they are shown in English.

In this lesson

What you will learn

  • Estimate the full monthly cost of a car, including insurance, gas, parking, taxes, and repairs.
  • Get pre-approved for a loan and compare offers by APR and total cost.
  • Recognize dealer traps, such as long loan terms, add-ons, yo-yo financing, and buy-here-pay-here lots.
  • Decide whether to cosign a car loan for someone else.

How this connects to class: In class you talked about cars as assets, how much car you can afford, and the risks of cosigning. This lesson adds DC-area costs, a worked loan comparison, a checklist for the dealer visit, and what to do if a dealer tries to change the deal after you drive home.

Words to know

Pre-approval
A lender's offer, before you shop, to lend you up to a set amount at a set rate if you meet its conditions.
Loan term
How long you have to repay a loan, such as 48 or 72 months.
Add-on
An extra product sold with a car or a loan, such as a service contract or GAP insurance. Add-ons are optional.
Negative equity
When you owe more on your car loan than the car is worth.
Yo-yo financing
When a dealer lets you take a car home, then says the loan was not approved and asks you to sign a new, more costly deal. Also called spot delivery.
Cosigner
A person who signs a loan with the borrower and promises to pay the debt if the borrower does not.
Buy-here-pay-here dealer
A car dealer that lends you the money for the car itself, instead of arranging a loan from a bank or credit union.

Count the full cost, not just the payment

The loan payment is only part of what a car costs. Before you shop, add up everything you will pay each month. Then check that the total fits in your spending plan after rent, food, and savings.

  • Insurance. DC, Maryland, and Virginia all require car insurance. Since July 1, 2024, Virginia no longer lets drivers pay a fee instead of buying insurance. Get insurance quotes before you choose a car. The price can change a lot by car model and ZIP code.
  • Taxes and fees. You pay a tax when you title the car. In 2026, Maryland's titling tax is 6.5% of the price for most vehicles. In Northern Virginia, counties and cities such as Fairfax County also charge a car tax every year.
  • Gas or charging, tolls, and parking. Think about your commute, a parking permit or garage, and toll lanes.
  • Maintenance and repairs. Oil changes, tires, brakes, and inspections. Older cars often need more repairs.

Example

Same car, two loan terms

Dev lives in Silver Spring. He wants to borrow $20,000 for a car. His credit union offers him 9% APR. See what the loan term does.

Borrowing $20,000 at 9% APR
Loan termMonthly paymentTotal paidInterest
48 months$497.70$23,890$3,890
60 months$415.17$24,910$4,910
72 months$360.51$25,957$5,957
Difference: 72 months minus 48 months$137.19 lower$2,067 higher$2,067 higher

$25,957 − $23,890 = $2,067 more for the 72-month loan

The 72-month loan lowers the payment by about $137 a month. But Dev pays about $2,067 more in interest. A long loan also means he may owe more than the car is worth for a longer time. This is called negative equity. If the car is wrecked or he needs to sell it, he could still owe money on a car he no longer has.

Dev's full monthly car cost with the 48-month loan (sample numbers)
CostEach month
Loan payment$498
Insurance$180
Gas$140
Parking and tolls$40
Maintenance and repairs$80
Registration and other yearly fees, saved monthly$15
Full monthly cost$953

The real cost is almost twice the loan payment. Use your own quotes, because your numbers will be different.

Get pre-approved before you shop

With a pre-approval, a bank or credit union reviews your application and tells you how much it will lend and at what rate, before you choose a car. Then you know your budget, and you can tell if the dealer's loan offer is better or worse.

  1. Check your credit reports for free and dispute any errors. See Read your credit report.
  2. Apply at two or three lenders, such as your bank and a credit union. The CFPB says to keep these credit checks within 14 to 45 days of each other, so they count as one inquiry.
  3. Compare the offers by APR, loan term, and total of payments, not just the monthly payment.
  4. Decide the highest total price you will pay, and write it down.
  5. Bring your best written offer to the dealer, and ask the dealer to offer a lower rate.

When a dealer arranges your loan, the rate is often the lender's rate plus extra interest that pays the dealer, the CFPB explains. You can ask whether there were other offers with lower rates.

No Social Security number? Ask banks and credit unions if they accept an ITIN for car loans. Some do. Be careful if a dealer tells you that no one else will lend to you. Check for yourself first.

At the dealer: one decision at a time

Some dealers mix the car price, your trade-in, and the loan together, and talk only about the monthly payment. This makes it hard to see what you are paying. Agree on each part separately, in this order:

  1. The price of the car, including all dealer fees.
  2. The value of your trade-in, if you have one.
  3. The loan: APR, term, and total of payments.

You can negotiate the price, the trade-in value, the APR, add-ons, and dealer fees such as document fees. You cannot negotiate taxes, title, and registration fees set by the government.

Dealer visit checklist

  • I have my pre-approval and my highest price in writing.
  • For a used car, I read the Buyers Guide sticker on the window. It says if the car is sold "as is," with no dealer warranty, or with a warranty.
  • A mechanic I trust inspected the car before I agreed to buy it.
  • I said no to add-ons I do not want, such as a service contract, window etching, or GAP insurance, which pays what you still owe beyond the car's value if the car is stolen or destroyed.
  • If I owe more on my old car than it is worth, I checked that this amount is not hidden in the new loan.
  • Every blank space in the contract is filled in, and the numbers match what we agreed.
  • The loan is final, and I have signed copies of everything before I drive away.

Watch out

Yo-yo financing and buy-here-pay-here lots

Yo-yo financing. Fatima buys a car in Woodbridge and drives it home the same day. A week later the dealer calls: "Your loan was not approved. Come back and sign a new contract with a higher rate." This is called yo-yo financing, or spot delivery.

You do not have to accept a new deal. If you do not want it, you can return the car, and the dealer should give back your down payment, the CFPB says. Depending on your contract, you may even have the right to keep the car on the first terms. Ask for your trade-in back too. The best protection is to make sure the loan is final before you take the car home.

I bought the car on [date] and signed a contract with an APR of [rate]. I will not sign a new contract today. Please send me, in writing, the reason you say the loan was not approved. If the sale is canceled, I want my down payment of [amount] and my trade-in back. I am asking the Attorney General's consumer protection office for advice.

Buy-here-pay-here lots. These dealers lend you the money themselves, often to people with low or no credit. The APR can be very high, and the cars are often older. Some lenders put a device in the car that tracks it or stops it from starting if you miss a payment. In many states, a lender can take back the car as soon as you default, for example by missing a payment, without warning. After the car is sold, you may still owe the difference. Compare a credit union loan first.

Need help? In DC, call the Attorney General's Consumer and Tenant Response team at 202-442-9828. In Maryland or Virginia, contact your state Attorney General's consumer protection office, Maryland Legal Aid, or Legal Services of Northern Virginia.

Before you cosign a car loan

In many families, a relative with good credit is asked to cosign. A cosigner is not just a reference. You promise to pay the loan if the borrower does not.

  • You may have to pay the full amount, plus late fees and collection costs.
  • In many states, the lender can collect from you without first trying to collect from the borrower.
  • The loan shows on your credit report. Late payments can hurt your credit, and the debt can make it harder for you to borrow.
  • The lender must give you a paper called the Notice to Cosigner that explains these risks. Read it.

Cosigning checklist

  • I could pay the whole loan myself if I had to, without hurting my own family's budget.
  • I have seen the borrower's budget, and the payment fits.
  • I have copies of the contract, the Truth in Lending disclosure, and the Notice to Cosigner.
  • The lender agreed to tell me in writing if a payment is missed.
  • I will check my credit reports often.

You can say no. You can still help in other ways, such as helping the person find a credit union loan or a less expensive car.

I care about you, and I want you to get a car. But I cannot cosign. If something goes wrong, I would owe the whole loan, and my family depends on my credit. I can help you look for a credit union loan or a less expensive car.

Tip

A new tax rule for some new-car loans

For tax years 2025 through 2028, the IRS says some buyers can deduct up to $10,000 a year of interest on a loan for a new car for personal use. The car's final assembly must be in the United States, and the loan must have started after December 31, 2024. Used cars and leases do not qualify. The deduction gets smaller for incomes over $100,000 ($200,000 for married couples filing together). A deduction lowers your taxable income, not your loan payment, so it is not a reason to borrow more. A free VITA tax site may be able to help you check if it applies to you. See File your taxes for free.

Key takeaways

  • Budget for the full cost of the car, not just the monthly payment.
  • A longer loan lowers the payment but raises the total cost: on $20,000 at 9% APR, a 72-month loan costs about $2,067 more than a 48-month loan.
  • Get pre-approved before you shop, and agree on the price, the trade-in, and the loan one at a time.
  • Add-ons are optional, and you should never sign a contract with blank spaces.
  • If you cosign, you may have to pay the full debt if the borrower does not.

Check your understanding

Answer the questions, then select Check my answers. Get 4 of 5 right to complete this lesson. This is practice: there is no time limit, and we do not keep your answers.

Question 1 of 5 Dev can borrow $20,000 at 9% APR for 48 months or for 72 months. Which statement is true?
Question 2 of 5 Gloria lives in Alexandria. Why should she get pre-approved at a credit union before she visits a car dealer?
Question 3 of 5 Fatima drove her new car home. Six days later, the dealer calls. It says her loan was not approved, and she must come in today to sign a new contract with a higher APR. What should she do?
Question 4 of 5 Samuel's cousin asks him to cosign a car loan and says, "You are just a reference." If the cousin stops paying, what can happen?
Question 5 of 5 Nadia agreed to buy a used car for $15,000 with no add-ons. At signing, the contract shows a $2,400 service contract she did not ask for, and the APR box is empty. What should she do?

Go further

Trusted websites where you can learn more. These links go to other websites that Dollar Scholars does not run.

This lesson is general financial education, not legal, tax, or financial advice. Rules and amounts change, so check important numbers with an official source.